Phobejekha to Punakha via Wangdue
Temple of the Divine Madman – Drukpa Kuenley
One of my favorite things about Bhutan is the open and healthy attitude about sex, and this is no more apparent than in Wangdue, home of the Chimi Lhakhang temple. This temple honors the lama, Drukpa Kuenley, the Divine Madman. He is renowned and loved for all the exploits involving his unique way of spreading the stories of Buddhism, told in such unforgettable ways that they are still shared today. According to Lonely Planet’s Bhutan Travel Guide, “He travelled throughout Bhutan using songs, humor and outrageous behaviour to dramatise his teaching to the common man. His outrageous, often obscene, actions and sexual antics were a deliberate method of provoking people to discard their preconceptions. His sexual exploits are legendary, and the flying phalluses you see painted on houses and hanging from rooftops are modelled on his. Kunley’s numerous sexual conquests often included even the wives of his hosts and sponsors. On one occasion when he received a blessing thread to hang around his neck, he wound it around his penis instead, saying he hoped it would bring him luck with the ladies.” To commemorate him, and to encourage fertility, large phalluses are painted on homes and wooden phalluses hung from corners of houses to keep away evil spirits. Blessings in the temple here include being touched with the symbols representing Kuenley – the bow and arrow and the phallus. It’s disappointing to see that fewer and fewer homes and shops are being adorned with the phallus. I’m afraid this is another impact of increased visits and questions from tourists about what is really a very endearing aspect of Bhutan’s culture. The phallus represents an earthy, humorous and healthy attitude about one of life’s pleasures, as well as honoring the spirit and memory of one of central Bhutan’s most beloved lamas. I hate to see signs of the Divine Madman disappearing. Outside the temple, young monks prepared for upcoming exams by reciting mantras in loud voices, no doubt meant to impress their teacher standing nearby.
Punakha Dzong
This is by far the most impressive dzong in all Bhutan, where the 5th king was married two years ago. The most impressive temples are here as well as the best examples of the architecture unique to this country. The first courtyard is adorned with an impressive bodhi tree.
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